The Adventures of...: Days 74-75

14 miles, endpoint PCT mile 1026

We were up early this morning, wanting to get to Highway 108 and be the first hikers to hitch into Bridgeport. We didn't realize, however, how many other hikers were camped in the same general area we were. After only seeing Poison and ET all day yesterday, we were suddenly surrounded by at least ten other hikers. For what is supposed to be a hard hitch into Bridgeport, this was not good.

We raced down the hillside past formidable volcanic peaks, barely taking it in. We were intent on beating the other hikers behind us. With about two miles to go we began to see the highway below, with more bad news: there was not a single car on the road. We kept the highway within eyesight for nearly an hour as we finished the hike down to Sonora Pass and saw possibly two total cars go by the entire time.

We reached the pavement and saw multitudes of other hikers milling about near a driveway to a picnic area. They were all trying to get rides to either Bridgeport or another spot the opposite way down the highway that we had not considered: Kennedy Meadows. This Kennedy Meadows is completely different and not at all affiliated with the other Kennedy Meadows we went to at the start of the Sierras. I am not sure why they share the same name; it is a bit strange. At any rate, this Kennedy Meadows is a resort with cabins, a campground, a restaurant, and a store. And it was about 20 miles closer to the trail than Bridgeport.

By chance we saw a VW van pull into the picnic area, driven by a guy named Strange Bird who we had seen in Tuolumne Meadows. This guy shuttles hikers when he can for donations, so we figured he might be our resupply ticket.

When we got to the van, four other hikers had just negotiated a trip to Kennedy Meadows. Since Strange Bird's van seats six passengers, we were in. Just like that, the plan for Bridgeport was forgotten and we were flying down a twisting, steep mountain road in the van. Unlike Rock Ocean's ride, Strange Bird's van was filled with all sorts of oddities and had a hoarder's touch to it. Strange Bird, true to his name, was a little strange--but friendly. He said the van only had three rules: number one: you can't be in a hurry. Number two: be kind. After this, Strange Bird stopped, staring at the road. We waited. Finally, in the front seat, Josh prodded, "What's the third rule?" "Oh, I don't know," Strange Bird responded, as if he had forgotten there were three rules. "Share, or something like that."

Kennedy Meadows ended up being a nice place with a decent store. We bought enough food to last us the four nights to South Lake Tahoe, as well as sandwiches, chips, and beer for today. While there we saw Bandit and Can-Can, the New Englanders we last saw in Agua Dulce! I wish we could have stayed longer and caught up with them, but our ride back to Sonora Pass with Strange Bird was waiting.

The rickety van climbed up the highway slowly in first gear, but we made it. Josh and I both felt very lucky we were able to resupply and make it back to the trail at a decent time--no getting stuck in a town and having to get a hotel.

Back at the picnic area, a friend of Strange Bird named Mover, noticed Josh's torn up shirt, which was getting worse by the day. Mover looked middle-aged, but it was hard to tell for sure. He had long dreadlocks down to his waist and "Mover" sewn in beads on one of the strands. He said he lives off his disability and spends his time hiking and drifting from town to town. In the winter he hikes the Florida Trail, and sometimes settles down for a little while if he finds a girlfriend who will let him live with her. He has been riding with Strange Bird north along the PCT route this summer. Mover had an extra shirt and insisted Josh take it. It fit and was a nice Mountain Hardware shirt. Josh literally got the shirt he is wearing now from a homeless guy. It was a very kind thing for him to do--thanks, Mover!

We organized our food and started hiking again around 3pm. We entered the Carson Iceberg Wilderness, and then after that the Emigrant Wilderness. We went up 1,000 feet through wildflowers and volcanic hillsides. We were able to get eight more miles in when we noticed some cool looking rocks away from the trail and across a small river. Not to be stopped, we waded across the river and camped in a spot I'm sure no one else will follow us to!

We have four more days until South Lake Tahoe, where we plan to take at least one full day off. It will be a big resupply location, with new shoes and socks, plus other goodies we shipped to ourselves from home. I am really looking forward to it!

Trail views

Emigrant Wilderness

Trail views

Kennedy Meadows store. Had everything we needed!

Trail views.

Trail views

Carson Iceberg Wilderness

Trail views

Day 75, 22 miles, endpoint PCT mile 1048

The first four hours this morning were mostly woodsy, viewless miles. We finally reached open terrain and had views of neighboring brown mountains still clinging to patchy snow. If I could pick one word to describe today, it would be "green"--green rolling hills in the distance, green meadows everywhere, and green, thickly forested valleys. We also saw wildflowers growing like weeds in every color--it was very pretty hiking.

The hiking was also very up and down. I would have thought that hiking over 1,000 miles would mean I could handle any hills of any elevation and any distance. My legs today were tired and I was breathing hard on every uphill. Maybe I just need a day off (speaking of, only three more days until South Lake Tahoe!).

We took a long break and made our dehydrated hummus. After killing that, plus a box of wheat thins, we were both feeling a little better. We finished out the day and found a nice campsite up behind a few boulders with views of valleys on both sides.

Oh--several days ago we very briefly got enough cell service for our phone to tell us we have 15 voicemails. I can't imagine who would leave us that many messages, but it will have to remain a mystery for now--we likely won't have service to make calls out for a few more days. Hopefully it's nothing too important!