The Adventures of...: Days 64-65

Day 64, 15 miles (????), endpoint PCT mile 923

Today was...interesting. I am glad I have safely made it to my tent tonight to tell you about it. We left our off-trail location next to Minaret Lake and began an even more off-trail journey around the backside of the neighboring mountains. To say we followed an actual trail would be generous; it was more of a hazy route at most times.

We went up a steep rocky hillside behind Minaret Lake, then scrambled around until we found the next lake even higher up. This lake was surrounded by boulders; we spent at least an hour hopping from rock to rock as we made our way along the lake. At the other side we peered over the edge of a steep drop-off. Below us was beautiful Iceberg Lake, with a faint trail running along its edge a couple hundred feet below us. We were so close, but it would have been incredibly stupid to attempt the route--it was way too steep.

We considered our options. Going back along that long boulder field, then walking all the way back down the trail to the JMT--essentially backtracking--sounded like a crappy option. Josh decided to check out one more area around the back of the lake to see if there was a better route. I sat and ate a candy bar while I waited.

Lucky for us, our efforts were not for naught; Josh found the route and we were back on. We went down a less steep cliff at the back of the lake and ever so slowly went past a waterfall, over a snowfield, and across a million loose rocks until finally we were at the shore of Iceberg Lake. The "hiking" going down had been terrifying, but I forgot all about it when I saw that lake up close.

After a relaxing break at Iceberg, we continued on what ended up being the tour of lakes. Getting back to the JMT we passed photogenic Lake Ediza. Then it was Garnet Lake, Ruby Lake, Emerald Lake, and finally the very edge of Thousand Island Lake. This is where we are camped; it is also where the JMT and the PCT rejoin and become one trail again.

I mentioned mosquito hell yesterday, but that was before we got to this area and learned how bad it could be. While making dinner and setting up the tent, we both had our rain gear on and bug nets on our heads. The buzzing sound was obnoxiously loud, and the mosquitos swarmed around us in thick packs. Once the sun went down they finally dissipated.

Tomorrow we will go over Donahue Pass at 11,000 feet.

Trail views

Going off trail.

Okay, a little steep in places.

Tedious boulder hoppin

Carla descending

This was the easy route.

Once we got through this snow it wasn't so bad.

Iceberg Lake

Lake Ediza - We will be back here someday.

1000 island lake.

Quick shot - taken from in the tent before falling asleep.

Day 65, 17 miles, endpoint partway down side trail to Yosemite Village (off the PCT)

We started our day with a mosquito-filled hike along the beautiful Thousand Island Lake. The lake made up for the mosquitos, so it was still a good morning. From there it was uphill towards Donahue Pass. Along the way fellow Oregonians Phil and Julia caught up to us (we last saw them a few days ago at VVR) and we hiked with them off and on up to the pass. We made it up to 11,000 feet and hung out for awhile, feeling in no rush.

We planned to get within a few miles of Tuolumne Meadows after that and camp, and go into the small town first thing tomorrow morning (Tuolumne is part of Yosemite National Park and has a store, a ranger station, and a post office). However, with about five miles to Tuolumne, we passed a junction with a sign indicating Yosemite Valley in 27 miles. We have planned all along to go to Yosemite Valley, but not from that trail and not until we passed through Tuolumne. We looked at our maps and realized two things: taking the side trail was about the same total mileage versus hiking in from Tuolumne, and we had enough food to last us the 27 miles. We decided to skip the "town" stop for now and explore a new trail on the way to Yosemite Valley.

It was late in the day when we turned off the PCT towards Yosemite, but we were still able to make it four miles in. We made our camp up on a rocky ridge at 10,500 feet. We have views of the mountains we came down today, as well as distant peaks. I'm actually not writing this in the tent like I normally would be, right before bed, but am instead sitting out, watching the sun go down, and enjoying the wilderness all around me. The stars are coming out now, and they are brighter here than anywhere else I have ever been.

Tomorrow will be a full day of hiking; the day after that we will make it into Yosemite for some touristy sightseeing!